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How To Clean Your Enfield Artillery Carbine/Musketoon

Regimental Quartermaster, Inc. has prepared these instructions to assist you in the care and maintenance of your musketoon/carbine.
We do not recommend this type of in-depth cleaning for an original/antique firearm as it will significantly devalue your musket.

You will need the following items to properly clean your musket:

Wooden Handle Awl: The awl is used for removing caked black powder from around the musket cone on the rear of the barrel
and other hard to reach areas.
T-Handle Nipple/Cone Wrench: Made of steel, these cone wrenches are for the removal and installation of the musket cone.
Use the wooden handled or Musket wrench for cones that are difficult to remove.
Wooden Handled Cone Wrench: Made by John Zimmerman, Master Gunsmith out of Harpers Ferry, WV, this solid tool
is useful for removing the nipple/cone from most barrels. Ensure that the wrench seats COMPLETELY over the cone to prevent
stripping the cone.
Wire Brush: The wire bristles are perfect for cleaning black powder and rust off of difficult to reach areas but do not use it on
any blued surfaces or brass, as the bristles are made of steel and result in damage.
Rear Sight Screw Wrench:For use on the rear sight of the M1855/61/63 Springfield Muskets. As the two pins on the end
are easily worn down or broken off, use Ballistol beforehand if the screw is difficult to remove.
Revolver Wedge Punch:
Made of Aluminum, this tool is typically used to remove the wedge from a revolver; however,
it is also great to remove/knock loose your bands from the musket if they are rusted tight onto the barrel.
Toothbrush: Great for cleaning the small nooks and crannies of your musket, especially around the front and rear sight and
on the internal mechanisms inside the lockplate.
Band Spring/Tumbler Punch: Original punch set is perfectly sized to fit both original and reproduction muskets.
Used to punch out the band spring pins, ramrod spring/trigger pins as well as separating the hammer from the tumbler.
Musket Wrench: Whether original or reproduction, this wrench is perfect to remove the musket cone as well as the screws of the musket.
If reproduction, we recommend grinding down the ‘leafs’ with a sander for a solid fit into screw heads.
Cleaning Rod: Cheaper and more durable than a ramrod, used to run patches and brushes down the inside of the barrel to
remove rust and black powder. Four sections used for most muskets, five sections for the Springfield M1842 barrel.
Brass Button Jag: Used to run cotton patches down the length of the barrel. Ridges along the side of the jag grip the cotton
patch and ensure the patch comes out of the barrel. Ensure you use the proper size jag for your musket’s caliber.
Brushes: Used to remove rust and black powder from the barrel. Recommend you spray the brushes with ballistol prior to
chasing it down the barrel to prevent them from getting stuck inside. The cotton brush can be cleaned and reused multiple times.
Hammer: A brass hammer is effective while, at the same time, made of a softer metal that will not mar/damage the steel of your musket.
Screwdriver: Flathead screwdriver made of steel. Screws on the muskets are easily damaged. Recommend using a screwdriver
that fits snugly into screw heads or use a grinder to shape the screwdriver head for a perfect fit.
Mainspring Vise: Used to remove/install the mainspring from the lockplate. A must-have tool as the use of pliers or vise grips
will mar the metal of the mainspring and potentially over stress the spring, causing it to break.
Ballistol: Ballistol cleans and removes all types of bore fouling, dissolves black powder and corrosive residue. Ballistol is fully
compatible with all metals including aluminum. Recommended for use with original muskets as well as it is non-abrasive and
will not damage the patina on original muskets. FLAMMABLE
Linseed Oil: Used to rejuvenate the wood of the stock and weather-proofing. Multiple coats may be needed as the wood will soak in
the oil, preventing it from drying out and cracking. FLAMMABLE
Cone/Nipple Pick: Made of steel, the long or short pick is used to clear out the cone hole of debris and black powder. As noted to
the right, the end may be formed to facilitate cleaning of the bolster’s ignition hole into the barrel.
NEVR-DULL: Works wonders on all types of metals, a little wadding goes a very long way and will simplify cleaning your musket.

Steel Wool: Not for use on blued steel unless you wish to remove the bluing, or brass. Easily removes rust and corrosion
from metal, but use sparingly and in conjunction with Ballistol.
Scouring Pads: Cheap but effective, very useful if cut into smaller, more manageable squares and used on steel. Use with
ballistol to remove caked grime, black powder and/or rust. Will remove the bluing off of a blued barrel.
Dremel Tool: This versatile tool will allow you to quickly polish brass, grind down metal, and shape the stock as needed.
Definitely a ‘force multiplier’ for your tool box. Cord and cordless models are available.

Often a carbine will receive a quick cleaning in the field. Typically this is done by running hot water down the barrel to remove a
ny black powder residue along with a quick wipe of the exterior. However, we recommend the owner disassemble the firearm
after use to remove any excess water from the inside of the lockplate and underneath the barrel bands which may result in significant
rust and potential damage. Every 6-12 months the wood should receive a coat of linseed oil to ensure the wood does not dry out and
begin forming cracks. We begin with our Euroarms Enfield Artillery Musketoon:

STEP 1: Ramrod
This musketoon has seen little care in the past five years. Rust has formed underneath the barrel bands, inside the
lockplate, around the cone and the wood is very dry. To begin, remove the ramrod and place it to the side. To clean the ramrod,
use Ballistol and a couple of cotton patches to remove surface rust. If there is significant rust, spray the ramrod with Ballistol and
wipe it down with wire wool or a wire brush.

STEP 2: Lockplate
Using a screwdriver or musket wrench, remove the lockplate screws from the stock opposite the lockplate. Once removed,
carefully use your awl to remove the lockplate washers from the stock and set them aside with the lockplate screws.
The screwdriver we use is over 40 years old and the head has been ground with our Dremel to ensure the screwdriver fits
perfectly into the screw heads to prevent accidentally damaging the heads.

Pull the hammer back to ‘safe’ and carefully remove the lockplate and its components by sliding it out from the stock.
If it is difficult to remove, reinsert the lockplate screws and lightly tap on the screw head with the brass hammer to push the
lockplate out from its well. We recommend using a brass hammer as it is a lighter metal and will not damage or mar the metal
components on the musket. Once removed, your components will look like this:

STEP 3: Lockplate Internals
Hold the lockplate in your hand and with your thumb pushing up on the sear, let the hammer fall back to the ‘down’ position
which will release tension on the mainspring. Using a mainspring vise, slide it over the mainspring and then tighten the vise
until it comes off of the stirrup (which is attached to the tumbler). Using light pressure, gently remove the main spring from the
lockplate. If the mainspring does not budge from the lockplate, locate the pin hole for the lockplate and lightly tap it out using
the tumbler/pin punch.
With the mainspring removed (1), use your screwdriver to first loosen the sear spring screw and (2) then pop the sear spring off of
the lockplate. (Note: If there is persistent rust, liberally spray the entire lockplate and its components with Ballistol. This will help
remove the rust while preventing damage from seized screws and potentially having them break off). Continue to loosen the sear
spring screw and remove (3). (4) Remove the sear and sear screw and (5) the bridle and bridle screw (ensuring you keep the
screws with their corresponding parts). Turn the lockplate over and remove the hammer screw. If the hammer does not come
off of the tumbler, insert the tumbler punch (large end) into the tumbler and knock it off of the tumbler using the brass head hammer.
Once the hammer comes off the tumbler, place it to the side and then remove the tumbler from the lockplate.
You are now ready to being cleaning the components (6):

All components should be sprayed with Ballistol and scoured using the wire brush. Once all rust and/or black powder
residue has been removed from the parts, wipe them down and reassemble in reverse order from above.

STEP 4: Bands
With the lockplate complete, set it aside along with the lockplate screws and washers. Take your musket and locate
the band springs. br/>With your screwdriver, carefully unscrew the screws until the band is loosened. Do not unscrew
all the way as attached to the end of the screw is a band screw washer which is peened over and can fall off. If the
bands do not budge, use the revolver wedge punch and hammer to gently tap the bands off of the barrel and stock.
The revolver wedge punch is made of aluminum and thus will not damage or mar the steel barrel and bands.

STEP 5: Barrel, Cone and Rear Sight
Once the bands are removed, check the cone, rear sight screws and tang screw to see if they are seized.
If not, unscrew and remove the rear sight, cone and tang screws. On our musketoon the cone is seized onto the
barrel with a significant amount of rust present. Like with all screws, if any of them are seized, liberally spray Ballistol
on the affected screw/area and let it sit for five minutes. Attempt again to remove the screws but do NOT strip them.
If they are still seized on, seek assistance from Regimental Quartermaster or a blackpowder gunsmith in your area.
Once the cone is tackled, carefully remove the rear sight, wipe it down with Ballistol and set it aside. DO NOT misplace
any of the screws.

STEP 6: Barrel
To clean the interior of the barrel, use a simple mix of dish soap and hot water. (NOTE: We do not recommend using
rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide in the barrel as it is very caustic and will result in pitting the metal.)
Pour the
hot water mixture down the barrel, plug the bolster hole and barrel end, and shake the barrel allowing the water to loosen up
any black powder residue inside. Repeat several times until the water comes out clear. Once the water runs clear, assemble
your cleaning rod, attach a nylon or brass brush, add water to the barrel and run the brush several times up and down the bore.
This will remove any caked on powder or rust. Once done, remove the brush and pour out the water from the bore. Unscrew
the brush from the cleaning rod and replace it with a button jag. Apply some Ballistol to a cotton patch. Run the patch down the
length of the barrel to remove any remaining black powder and rust. Repeat until the patch comes out clean. With the interior
complete, use cotton rag and Ballistol to remove any rust and black powder from the exterior of the barrel. Continue cleaning
the exterior of the barrel until all rust and black powder has been removed. Do NOT USE steel wool or pad unless you wish to
remove the bluing from your barrel. Place the barrel to the side.

STEP 7: Ramrod Spring
Inside the barrel channel you’ll find the ramrod spring. Locate the pin on the side and lightly tap it out with the tumbler/pin punch.
Remove the spoon and pin and clean them with Ballistol and cotton pads. Set aside when complete.

STEP 8: Nose Cap
Locate the nose cap and nose cap screw. Unscrew the nose cap screw and then slide the nose cap off of the stock.
Clean the screw and nose cap with Ballistol and brush as needed. If you wish, the brass nose cap, as seen below,
may be polished to a high shine. Set them aside.

STEP 9: Trigger Guard Assembly
Turn the stock and locate the trigger guard assembly. Unscrew the two wood screws and set them to the side.
Locate the trigger guard pin inside the lockplate well and punch out the pin with the tumbler/pin punch.
Remove the assembly.

Additional Ballistol may be needed on the trigger screw and trigger guard nuts. Gently remove these
as you do not want to strip these screws. Once all parts have been removed, clean the steel with Ballistol
and a wire brush/steel wool. The brass trigger guard and trigger housing may be cleaned and polished
to a high shine with NEVR-DULL. Once complete, reassemble the trigger guard assembly (make sure that you
put the trigger housing assembly on BEFORE the trigger guard) and set it to the side.

STEP 10: Buttplate
The buttplate receives some of the worst wear as a musket often rests on the ground allowing moisture and
dirt to get into the screws and between the butt plate and stock. Clean off the screw heads with water or Ballistol
removing all debris from the heads themselves. Carefully unscrew and place the buttplate and screws to the side.
Liberally apply Ballistol to both sides of the buttplate and remove all traces of rust. NEVR-DULL will allow you to
return the brass to a high shine. Clean the screws, particularly the undersides of the screw heads (where they
meet the metal of the buttplate), and set them aside. Locate the rear swivel and unscrew it from the stock and set it aside.
Once completed, the wood stock is all that should remain.

STEP 11: Stock
The least cared for part on your musket is most likely the wood stock. Carved from dark walnut, wood is very
susceptible to temperature and humidity causing it to dry out. The remedy for this is several liberal applications
of Linseed Oil (natural is preferred, boiled is okay), which can be purchased from Lowe’s, Home Depot, Walmart
or even your local hardware store. However, linseed oil is VERY flammable and care must be taken when applying.
All linseed soaked materials should be disposed of immediately after use. Using a cotton cloth or paper towels, soak
your material and ‘paint’ the oil onto the stock. Treat both exposed areas as well as the barrel groove, ramrod trench,
lockplate well, trigger guard well and the buttplate with linseed. Set the stock aside to dry in a well ventilated area as it
may take several hours to be absorbed. Several applications may be required. Continue applying until the wood ceases
to absorb the surface oil. Wipe down when complete. You are now ready to reassemble the musket.


STEP 12: Buttplate
Once the stock has been completely wiped down, locate your buttplate and wood screws and attach them to the stock.
As these are wood screws it is important NOT to overtighten them as they will strip out the wood. However, if it is already
stripped you can purchase stainable wood putty to remedy this, as we have done with our musket. Please follow the
instructions of the wood putty product! In a pinch, you may also use toothpicks or a wooden dowel as a quick fix.
Then re-attach the rear swivel.

STEP 13: Trigger Guard Assembly
Turn the stock over and locate the trigger guard assembly well. Insert your trigger housing assembly into the well.
Next, gently insert your trigger guard assembly, sling swivel to the front, into the well and over the trigger housing.
Screw the wood screws into the stock. Again, if the wood has been stripped, you should use a wood putty so that the
trigger guard plate is securely fastened to the stock. Do not overtighten the screws. Finally, insert the trigger guard
retaining pin into the hole and lightly tap it into place, securing the trigger guard to the stock.

STEP 14: Nose Cap
Collect the nose cap and nose cap screw and slide the nose cap gently onto the stock. Line up the hole in the
stock with the nose cap and screw it into place.

STEP 15: Lockplate
At this point we accelerate the ‘reverse order’ reassembly by installing the lockplate BEFORE the barrel.
As the linseed oil may have caused the stock to swell, it is simpler to install the lockplate before the barrel
due to the tight tolerances found on most EuroArms and Pedersoli models. Locate the lockplate assembly,
screws and washers. With the hammer in the ‘safe’ position, gently insert the lockplate while, at the same time,
pushing the trigger forward so that the lockplate is fully seated. Turn the stock over, insert the lockplate washers
into the wood and then tighten down the lockplate screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the screws as the wood
will expand and contract and overtightened screws will prevent it from doing so, leading to cracks in the wood
around the lockplate washers.

STEP 16: Ramrod Spring
With the lockplate installed, locate your ramrod spring and pin. Lay the spring inside the groove and gently insert the
pin until it is sitting in the groove of the spring. Lightly tap the pin into the stock until it is flush with the stock.

STEP 17: Rear Sight and Cone
Placing a touch of Ballistol on the cone threads, screw the cone into the barrel. Do not overtighten the cone
as it is the most susceptible to corrosion due to the use of black powder. Locate your rear sight and place the
rear sight assembly onto the barrel, lining up the holes. Screw the rear sight screw into place for a snug fit without
over tightening.

STEP 18: Barrel & Barrel Bands
Pull the hammer of your Enfield to ‘Safe’ and place your barrel into the stock, lining up the tang hole
(located to the rear of the barrel) with the receiving hole of the stock. Screw the tang screw into the barrel
until tight. Return the hammer to the ’down’ position on the cone. Carefully slide the two barrel bands
(screw heads on the left side of the musket) onto the stock/barrel until each barrel band is snug with the stock.
Tighten the band screws until the bands are tight.

STEP 19: Ramrod
Slide your ramrod into the musket. With your snap cap and leather sling reattached your
musket is now clean and ready for your next event!